Commodore DTV HI-RES Pictures

This was my second ever DTV Hack. (NTSC) DTV. The first one was limited in many ways. TO be honest the joystick which is part of the original DTV is very poor design and very hard to play some of the games. It is not very responsive and often moving it in a single direction would cause it to register two directions (for example moving up might register as up-left or up-right) which greatly interferes with certain games like International Karate. So I decided a real C64 joystick would be better. I bought a Jiffybox and decided it was time for a transplant.

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  • I did mine different from many people, and in some ways it is more innovative. The circuit board is mounted on regular screw-in standoffs like an ATX motherboard would use. Only, these are the ones most often used on serial ports and the like. I used those because I had the nuts readily available for the other side. But regular motherboard standoffs would work fine too. Having this firm mounting and perfect elevation also made it possible to drill a hole in the top and use the original reset button on the board itself. (cannot see this in the open picture, but look at the assembled pictures and see the little red button on top) I could have actually included all 5 original buttons, but decided there was no need. I actually thought of that at the last minute when I was trying to find a cheap panel-mount pushbutton. The power connector is a standard harddrive or CDROM power connector. I use these on a lot of stuff I make because they are very common. I replaced all the ends of things in my house that use 5V or 12V with these connectors. So I can share power supplies between many decives without having to keep up with them. I could also plug this right into an AT or ATX power supply and run it that way. Also, if you are wondering what the 4 RCA jacks are for, they are Video, Audio, Chroma, and Luma. I decided to go with regular RCA jacks for the chroma and luma since they are easier and cheaper to aquire than an S-video connector. It also makes it easy to hook up to a Commodore monitor with seperated video (such as my 1084) and if you hook it up to a black & white monitor or TV you'll get a cleaner picture from the luma jack. However, at this time I'm still having trouble getting the chroma to work. I also used the original power LED from the jostick and stuck it through a hole in the box.

    Just a few last notes. This was a learning experience. In retrospect I didn't like using the PC power supply connector directly in the box. It is too difficult to plug and unplug. So later models I used a regular barrel connector and made a custom cable with the PC power supply on one side and the barrel connector on the other. ALso I originally had 2 joystick ports in mind as you can see, but only one is connected. At the time I built this, there was still some hope that a way would be found to make them both operational. But later this turned out to be unlikely. Also I had 4 RCA jacks. The 2 extra ones were intended to be Chroma and Luma. However, I could never get them to work right. In retrospect, I think I know why now. I probably needed to remove a capacitor from the board to get a true seperation of chroma/luma. I actually did it that way on my Version 2 hacks.

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