These are actual photographs of the hardware itself, inside and out.
Notes: In many ways this one is easier to solder to than the original NTSC version because you can actually poke the wires all the way through the board and solder them on the other side. The only exception is the IEC Atn wire. There is a hole for it, but the copper is not exposed and so your solder will not stick to it. It may be possible (although I haven't tried yet) to scrape the protective coating off with a knife and then solder. I've done this on another board but I'm somewhat scared to try it on this one. Instead I soldered to the surface mount resistor on the other side where the pad connects to. This seems to work fine, but the connection is very fragile so you'll want this to be your last connection before finishing up the job.
|This is a picture of the board and I have annotaded where all the usefull connectors are, such as the PS/2 and IEC ports. This shot was taken before I did any work to the board, so it is pretty much in original state.|
|This is a basic diagram showing what all the different parts of the board do.|
|This is what the game looks like before you tear it apart. The little speedometers and stuff are just stickers, they don't work.|
|Still in opened, sealed, original box.|
|This is the under-side of the board. You'll find the potentiometer and a few things. But most hacking will be done on the other side. Of course, you will have to do some soldering on this side, when you poke wires through from the other side.|
|This is a work in progress. I'm attempting to re-create the entire board in a high-res easy-to-see GIF image.|
|This is the most high resolution picture (to my knowledge) available on the internet of the Hummer board. Be warned it is 3.1 MB in size.|